Thursday, September 24, 2009

Toasting Eid in the Desert

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Ramadan concluded last Saturday when the official sighting of the next new moon was declared, ushering in the beginning of the Eid Al Fitr holiday. On Sunday, a few of us from the office were invited to an afternoon/evening excursion to the desert with a seaside dinner at the tour operator's camp. Halfway there, we went off-road and the drivers in our Land Cruiser caravan of 4 let air out of the tires for better traction and the stop was equipped with camel riding entertainment for the attention-challenged. I checked out the ones off duty...

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Another 30-40km and we arrived at the dusk photo op spot.




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The craggy shoreline in the horizon is Saudi Arabia, another 35km away from border control. We instituted a standard office snap called the jumpshot, coerced by the Aussie (left) that coordinates it on every trip she takes. In the middle is our resident Dutchman and the other lady is from the northeast, like me. I captured the action shot best, so I'm not in it. It reminds me of the pictures my sister used to take in front of any Matisse painting of "The Dancers" with her friends at august museums and galleries 20 years ago...and now I am jumping in the Arabian desert.









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Food & Falcons still on deck but the holiday is over and time to get a language tutor.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

First Eid


Almost two weeks into this new life and thankfully, Ramadan is just a few days away from conclusion. On Thursday, Eid leave begins at the office and next week everything is closed for three days. So the 1-7pm month-long Ramadan closures are now replaced with all-day closures. The city should empty out for planned vacations to the coast or other spots in the region. Some of the westerners in the office will work through it, including yours truly. I am looking forward to meeting the tea and coffee crew that resume their duties on Sunday the 27th, the first day back after the Eid holiday. One of the Aussies on my end of the western wing swears the weather gets "really nice" in October and will host us for a "barbee"...we may have different views on what "nice" is...

I attended a Ramadan dinner last week hosted by an Iraqi colleague who miraculously presented an extravagant feast after working that day - she's an accomplished Levantine cook and insists I teach her how to make risotto in her kitchen. She had us falling out of our chairs with tales of bureaucratic impasse this summer - she must find new housing and replace her passport as there's an error in her grandfather's name. I met another Iraqi, a painter, at a Ramadan Suhour dinner, who quietly expressed his view that "with Saddam, there was only one." I marvel at the joie de vivre each of these very different people possess.

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I quickly snapped this photo during the noon call to prayer last Friday at a cultural center, where the women go to prayer outside of the home while the men go to the mosques. I am still getting used to the local women in the head-to-toe abaya as well as undergoing a transformation of my own work wear. It's not sufficient to be covered to the elbow and knee - - the fabrics cannot be transparent and the fit cannot be too tight. Pushing the envelope on that front places a woman in jeopardy of losing respect and not being invited to meetings, etc. My (American female) boss was not pleased with an outfit I chose last week and let me know it, so now I am semi-paranoid and determining that a good chunk of my clothing may be unsuitable for the office.

Found a great yoga studio in the middle of town owned by a Brit that's been a yogi for 20+ years. She's an excellent instructor and the classes are filled with ex-pats in normal yoga wear. There's no a/c in the studio so it's pseudo-Bikram without the sadist instruction. They are hosting a yoga workshop in Zanzibar over Eid...something to pencil in for next year! One must cover up going in and out despite the ambient heat and the studio conditions as there's a mosque across the street...their web site warns against parking in the Imam's space.

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Which brings me to traffic. It's not as dense as NYC but the drivers are out of their minds. There are 3-lane roundabouts all over town to keep movement flowing. This little goodie in the photo above snaps a shot of your car if you're speeding, running a red light, making a traffic menace of yourself, and you are not notified by mail. Good luck leaving the airport on your next flight as license plates are tied to passport, visa, and Resident Permit details and accumulated tickets must be paid, or you are denied boarding. The fines are steep and there's a web site where one can check for infractions/fines. I am still enjoying the privilege of a driver that's at my disposal the first month so these vehicular adjustments are not yet on my plate. I should be memorizing the sequence of the roundabouts and landmarks as we go around town for meetings and other errands but I end up studying and quizzing myself on Arabic numbers on the license plates, which are displayed above the cardinal (thank you, Wiki) numbers on all plates. I can read the numbers on contracts/estimates in Arabic at work now but I still don't know how to get around town very well. Priorities.

I'll look into an Arabic tutor and a sailing class after Eid (everything is "after Eid" these days). In the meantime, it may only be 98 degrees by the weekend.

Food and Falcons to follow...

Monday, September 7, 2009

Labor Day

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Fifteen years ago, I moved to New York over Labor Day weekend. This Labor Day, I moved to the Persian Gulf, departing Dulles with a full moon rising and deplaning on the tarmac to the same full moon the following night and the distant sound of the call to prayer. The photo is of a mosque outside my window at daybreak on Sunday around 5am. It's all auspicious.

First day of assimilation on Saturday wasn't too bad - spent the better part of the day at the W Hotel either at the Bliss Spa or at lunch at Spice Market; the jet lag, heat and the clandestine eating and drinking during daylight were the only indicators that I was no longer in New York.

But then there was the first day at the office....the protocol to obtain a Resident Permit, Driver's License and Liquor Permit were loosely explained and apologies offered for the absence of the "coffee and tea people" during Ramadan as no one is allowed to eat or drink anything during daylight at the office. They will apparently resume their duties at the end of Eid Al Fitr, which follows the conclusion of Ramadan, when the office will be officially closed for 10 days. Right now, the place clears at 1pm so the faithful can finish their fast in the comfort of home and all the shops are closed at 1pm until 8pm, when they reopen past midnight.

All the local women wear the Abaya at the office and the men wear the Thobe, a long white tunic with a white or red-checked headpiece secured with a black ring. It was initially odd to see such a concentration of this customary dress as the city is teeming with nationals from the Philippines, Indonesia, Pakistan, India, secular Muslims from other parts of the region and westerners from Europe, Australia and the US, who do not dress as such. My PC keyboard has both the English and Arabic keys and if I can wrest a company-issued BlackBerry from HR, the keys will be the same on this device. My eyes are adjusting to a lot.

There are two other Americans in my area that arrived 8 weeks ago, at the height of the savage heat and humidity. They laughed at me today when we departed the office at 3pm and it felt like peak heat since my arrival Friday night - it was 105 degrees and extremely humid. They've not only toughed out the temporary hotel arrangements and the rigomorol of obtaining the permits and licenses but they are also certified heat warriors, having endured 115+ degree days and sandstorms in August.

I plan to go to yoga boot camp at a studio I just found during Eid, if the office is indeed closed or on an abbreviated schedule. I cannot maintain my 90-minute walking regimen here as it's too hot and as a woman, I cannot wear shorts and must wear sleeves - not my idea of an exhilarating walk by the Persian Gulf in this sauna...maybe in December. Until then, I'll be a gym rat and find my schedule at the yoga. My heart sinks a little to miss the US Open at Flushing Meadows for the first time in 14 years but happy to be here.


Saturday, August 15, 2009

That Name Thing

Still no corrected work visa. Supposed to leave in 4 days.

Plan B: employer purchases a roundtrip ticket the day before my scheduled departure out of the country and I enter under a tourist visa. Nimble - that will no doubt be the mideast version of me.

Further vexing the name thing ...my mother left a message for me warmly congratulating me for the saint's feast day of my namesake observed this week on the Catholic calendar - a name we used to share before I changed mine to my nickname.

And then there's my brother's 25th high school reunion I just attended. I have shamefully/lessly skipped all of mine despite occasional proximity to the area. He drove up from Miami specifically to attend so I went along. At the name tag desk, I confronted the name thing again ... had to write the name that's currently on the work visa that I can't use as no one would know me with my legal name, which may have had some upside but I went with the historical.

It's going to be 106 degrees when I land and clear as a tourist, a pejorative I used repeatedly in NYC.

شکرآ

Monday, August 10, 2009

Don't Sweat the Details

What's in a name? Date? Place?

I recently visited my aunt, to whom I owed some quality time prior to leaving the country. During the course of the week, I asked her questions about her side of our family as we purportedly have roots in the Asturias and Galicia regions of Spain and I am unfamiliar with that region and not-so-distant family history; she deferred most of the queries to my mother, who she claims is the family historian. When my grandmother passed away in February at 95, my aunt, who made all the burial arrangements, called my mother to confirm where my grandmother had been born for the obituary. Since my mother wasn't home to answer the phone, my aunt went with Galicia, Spain. Turns out my grandmother was born in Cuba; her elder sister was born in Spain.

Twelve years ago this summer, my father died suddenly of a cerebral aneurysm in the early evening of July 25th in Miami. At the time, his three daughters were scattered across the country with me living in New York, another recently moved to Massachusetts for graduate school, and the youngest at a wedding in the Midwest with her boyfriend. My mother kept him on a respirator until the next day, when we had all flown in to pay our respects and to facilitate organ donation. That was the 26th of July.

My father was a political scientist specializing in Latin America and an anti-Castro, pro-democracy Cuban American; his date of death simply could not be shared in history with the Castro brothers. Together with Che, Fidel and Raul named the revolution that eventually toppled the Batista government, The July 26th Movement, to commemorate a failed attack on the same day in 1953 that landed Fidel and Raul in jail for two years. There was no way in hell my father's death could be remembered on this day. The death certificate says the 26th. The headstone is engraved with the 25th.

And then there is the matter of my arrival in the gulf in a mere 10 days. Like Bengali culture Jhumpa Lahiri describes in her novel, The Namesake, many Latin families baptize their children with a formal name and nickname them something totally different, using the nickname in the house and within the family. That distinction blurs throughout childhood in situations like athletic events when said parents enthusiastically cheer on their kids, hollering the nickname that teammates and coaches likely don't know. I always preferred my nickname to my given name and legally changed it accordingly a few years ago.

I got a little nervous about the name thing in the spring when, as a foreigner, I was required to submit copies of my academic credentials and other personal documentation to my prospective employer. Of course, my documentation is in both the given and the legal nickname. Despite sending copies of the court papers and explaining the situation, the Ministry of Labor issued my work visa to my given name, which is no longer my legal name and which is not reflected on my passport. The correct visa was requested a few weeks ago and the fear is to entering the country with a tourist visa, should the work visa not be properly issued in time. The colossal hassle to straighten that out, during Ramadan, when half the country is on holiday or working part-time is a headache I am desperate to avoid. I am envisioning the great stand-off in a week or so, when I may refuse to board the flight until my visa is correctly issued. Unfortunately, it seems I have to sweat this small thing ...

Countdown to Departure

For seemingly endless months, I talked about a potential job in the Persian Gulf. With the economy slowly emerging from the precipice of collapse and stabilizing to a recovery that is still a long, hard slog, an opportunity to work abroad in a region that was the focus of my recent graduate studies seemed too good to be true.

In a few weeks I move to one of the gulf states to assume my position with a non-profit initiative. After 15 years in New York City, I packed up my loft in the winter to await the contract and over the months edited, culled and re-edited what I consider the essential must-haves for triple-digit heat, sand storms and untold travel adventures. To kill time and/or assuage nerves over the spring and summer, web trolls for weekly sailing and scuba certification classes, sandsurfing in the Arabian and Egyptian dunes, surfing on Masirah Island, (long) jaunts to Borneo and yoga bootcamp in Mysore, painted an exciting future in the abstract.

Chronicling a colorful reality of assimilation as well as the hilarity of the absurd is the purpose of this space. Many friends have treated me to farewell lunches, dinners, coffees, drinks, ... over the months of imminent departure. A comment shared by a particularly dear person (during a fabulous Elderflower Martini lunch at Marseille on 44th & 9th) comes to mind as especially prescient with the exit almost realized: depression is the rent you pay for living in the house of desire.

Stay tuned for initial impressions ...my first day on the ground is the first day of Ramadan and it will be over 100 degrees everyday, until October. Maybe.

Oh, and two words for acquaintances/friends of family/friends who have expressed reluctant enthusiasm at the geography of my next step: Timothy McVeigh.